The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You


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Things to do in Positano

Boats and hydrofoils depart regularly from Positano.

Why Visit the Amalfi Coast?

Insider tip: For a taste of Capri beyond the crowds, stay overnight. Once the last hydrofoil has left, the island breathes a collective sigh of relief. O ne of the most magnificent coastal drives in the world is also one of the most frustrating, provoking trepidation, road rage, nausea and wonder at the sheer beauty of it all in equal doses. Be prepared for agonisingly slow progress: the road is only just wide enough for two lanes of traffic and inexperienced drivers often get stuck.

A couple of bends in the road east of Positano lies the sleepy village of Praiano , a less glitzy alternative to its high-profile neighbour. Really just a sprawling cluster of pretty, whitewashed houses spilling down to the sea with a friendly bar and a huge church, it makes a good base for exploring the area. Its pretty seaside extension, Marina di Praia , is wedged between towering cliffs with a scrap of sand, a bar and a couple of restaurants.

I f you spend any significant time in this part of the world, you will almost certainly come across the striking, whacky ceramics of Paolo Sandulli ; female busts with bright lipstick, eye-catching earrings and shocks of bright hair made from dyed sea-sponge. Or maybe a woman in a bikini riding a dolphin, or diving into a glass jar. Avellino native Sandulli is a painter, sculptor and poet who has lived and worked in a crumbling, medieval tower looking out to sea in Praiano since and now exports his work all over the world.

He works on the lower level, but will take you up a teetering spiral staircase to his showroom above. Contact: 00 39 , paolosandulli. C apri has its Blue Grotto; the costiera has an emerald green version. Access is via a lift that descends into the cave where visitors are loaded into little rowing boats. T he busiest town on the Costiera, famous for paper-making and lemons, Amalfi was once a glorious Maritime Republic.

Although unbearably crowded in high season it is a very pretty little resort wedged between the sea and the mountains and fringed by lemon terraces. The beautiful Chiostro del Paradiso entered from the porch was originally built in as a burial ground for the local aristocracy and has interlaced, Moorish arches enclosing a garden.

The Cappella della Crocifisso houses glittering treasures from the diocese. They were stolen from Constantinople in ; his sarcophagus regularly oozes a 'miracle' liquid. Closed from 7 Jan—end Feb. S ince the 13th century, Amalfi has been known for its papermaking. In the late 18th century, there were 16 paper mills in the area; today there are just two.

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How to Pick the Best Travel Guide Books

The small but fascinating Museo della Carta housed in a 15th-century mill documents the history of paper-making in Amalfi. Amazingly, in the heyday of the Republic, Atrani was a posh suburb of the larger town, but now its maze of narrow lanes, pedestrian tunnels, stairways and higgledy-piggledy barrel vaulted houses are a refuge from the mayhem round the corner.

The square is a lovely spot for a quiet coffee. J ust east of Amalfi, the low-key resorts of Minori and Maiori are much less crowded that their more glamorous neighbours to the west. Pretty Minori has a small beach, a fantastic pastry shop and the once-grand Villa Romana, where you can see traces of first century AD frescoes and mosaics.

Further on, Maiori was once the centre of ship building for the Amalfi Republic; today it is a fascinating contrast of old and new. T he fishing village of Cetara , just west of Vietri, offers a glimpse of what the whole of the costiera must have been like before the tourists descended. Authentic and un-prettified at least for now , the cluster of peeling, pastel-hued houses encloses a small beach plus the only working fishing port left on the coast.

Ceramic production here started in the 15th century but reached its peak in the s and s when it became fashionable among the Neapolitan aristocracy. There is a good beach, too, about a kilometre below the town. I nsider tip: Ceramics shops vie for space on the main street, but the best place to buy is Ceramiche Artistiche Solimene.

D reamy, romantic Ravello is perched on a metre buttress looking over the shimmering waters of the Gulf of Salerno far below. Removed both physically and in spirit from the hubbub on the coast road, its crumbling palazzi, glorious gardens and rather other-worldly atmosphere has attracted artists, musicians and writers for centuries. Insider tip: The main visitor draws are the gardens at Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone and the magnificent 11th-century cathedral, but it is also a lovely place to just wander the quiet streets followed by a prosecco in the pretty main square.

Today the villa is occupied by a luxury hotel , but the magnificent gardens, suspended high over the sea, are open to the public. You too can stay here. The villa today is an eclectic mix of Moorish and classical architecture, but it is the dreamy gardens that attract the visitors. Look out for the concerts at dawn, performed on a spectacular stage suspended from one of the terraces.

Address : Piazza del Duomo, Ravello Contact : 00 39 , villarufolo. C hiara Lima and her 'mamma' Agata invite guests into their welcoming own home to teach the secrets of the sunny local cuisine. When the meal is ready, everyone sits down to lunch on the terrace together accompanied by lots and lots of wine. Contact: 00 39 ; mammaagata. Address : Piazza del Duomo Contact : 00 39 , chiesaravello. We urge you to turn off your ad blocker for The Telegraph website so that you can continue to access our quality content in the future.

Visit our adblocking instructions page. Expert guide to the Amalfi Coast. Most likely, you will be stopping every few feet on this road to take a photo because everything is Instagram-worthy here. Tip: Take most of your photos on the way down. Trying to take photos after a long, hot day on the beach as you walk up the side of a cliff is not an easy task.

Positano Travel Tips — The beaches in Positano are made of pebbles, not sand, so you can leave your sand castle-making tools at home. But bring your flip-flops! After a few hours in the sun, those pebbles get hot. Make sure you stick around to watch the sunset in Positano.

Just arrive at the station and buy your ticket.


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The journey takes half an hour from Sorrento, and the entrance to Pompeii is just a few steps from where the train lets you out. Pompeii is enormous, so depending on how in-depth you want to get and whether or not you want to see everything there is to see, you will probably spend anywhere from three hours to all day inside the ruins. We hit all the major highlights and a few of the more obscure areas and spent a total of four hours inside Pompeii, including the time we spent getting lunch at one of the cafes.

Group tours covering Pompeii highlights are available daily or you can splurge for a private guided tour that will take you around to whatever you like. If you want to go the more economical route, you can purchase a guide book from the same place you buy your entrance tickets. Bring protection from the sun — a hat, sunscreen, and a shirt that covers your shoulders is best. It gets super hot here in the summer and there is zero shade anywhere in Pompeii.

Pompeii is a busy place, and we ended up having to wait to see some of the most popular areas. If you do finish earlier than expected, you can also take the train a short distance to Herculaneum , another ancient town destroyed by Mount Vesuvius that is even better preserved than Pompeii. You deserve it after all that walking at Pompeii!

Besides Positano, one of the most scenic beach destinations on the Amalfi Coast is the town of Amalfi itself.

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Try to sit on the coastal side of the bus each way. Amalfi is a much bigger town than Positano, so the main beach gets a little louder and wilder than it does in Positano. They offer eat-in or take-away and their pizzas and pasta are pretty much Italian perfection, but one of the best parts is watching them cook from the open window. Walking out on the pier provides the best panoramic view of the town of Amalfi. When planning your trip, I recommend leaving the last full day on your Amalfi Coast itinerary open, just in case you want to return somewhere you loved on your first few days which there is a strong possibility of.

Another good option would be to take the ferry out to Capri for the day. Ferries leave frequently from the port in Sorrento during peak season and the journey only takes about half an hour, so getting there is easy. Hit the Blue Grotto first thing before it gets too busy and then head over to Anacapri to take the chairlift or hike to the top of Mount Solaro for some gorgeous views of the island and ocean. Luckily, both trains and buses on the Amalfi Coast are reliable and easy to use. No advance purchase is needed. Just show up before the scheduled time you want to leave and purchase your ticket.

The journey takes about an hour and the train will let you off near the center of town. The bus station is located just outside the train station, which is super convenient if you need to catch a ride to somewhere else along the coast. We tried both ways and I definitely preferred the bus since taking one form of transportation is almost always easier than two.

I think it goes without saying that when in Italy, any diet you may have been sticking to before is going to go right out the window as soon as you arrive. Some things you absolutely have to try — pizza Naples is known for making the best in the world, but what we had in Amalfi was pretty amazing, too , pasta and seafood bonus points if you have them together , all the gelato at least one new flavor every day is a must , and local fresh fruits and veggies.

Also, we discovered lots of local groceries have take-away pastas and sandwiches that are perfect to eat from the comfort of your sun lounger. The water is the perfect temperature for swimming and sunny days definitely outnumber the rainy ones, but holy crowds! May and June are perfect if you want to see the Amalfi Coast in bloom, and September will be your best bet if you still want swimming weather, but fewer crowds. And bonus, both of these options also mean lower prices for accommodations.

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of these links, we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please note, we only recommend products and companies we personally use. Connecting historical dots in cities and finding scenic hiking trails are her top priorities when traveling. Loved your blog on the Amalfi Coast — very informative and useful information — thank you! My fiance and I are visiting in September for our honeymoon — 6 nights in Positano and 2 nights in Praiano — soooooo exicted!

We visited Florence and the Cinque Terre last summer and fell in love with Italy. Any suggestions for romantic dinner locations anywhere on the coast?

How exciting! The Amalfi Coast will be the perfect place to honeymoon! It pops up all the time on Instagram and is absolutely gorgeous. Both are beautiful with the most elegant atmosphere, perfect for honeymooners. My wife and I and 3 other couples will be spending 3 days in the Amalfi coast, then to Rome for a week long tour. Good question! I was planning to stay 3 notes in Sorrento and 3 in Amalfi. Good choice? Would Capri be better? I heard Naples is a city and skip, can catch most transports from Sorrento and Positano to other areas but silly to stay in both places since they are so close.

Basing yourself in Sorrento for three nights would make it easy to explore Sorrento itself, take a day trip to Pompeii, and get to Capri on the ferry if you decide to visit.

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I hope that helps! Hi Sarah, thanks to share your trip in Amalfi coast.

Private Day Tours, Positano: Address, Phone Number, Private Day Tours Reviews: 5/5

Next time I suggest you to visit Salerno too. My husband are coming to Southern Italy and May and we are trying to put together the perfect trip. We are looking to do some vespa rentals, maybe a convertible rental one day, and then a boat tour. Thank you! What a fantastic blog you have! The Amalfi Coast is one of the most magical destinations in the world. Another tip to have when travelling to Pompeii is an umbrella.

I know it seems silly as the likelihood of it raining is 0-none but as there is no shade at Pompeii this is quite a useful accessory to have. From experience too, the secret to enjoying a nice spot in the sun on the beach of Positano, without another person sitting on top of you, is to come and have a nice early or afternoon dip! I love your photos! Keep up the good work! Love VegemiteSpaghetti xx. Thank you for a great read and inspiration as well as very useful information. Heading that way with my family in October- a trip down memory lane for my husband who spent many holidays there as a teenager-hoping our grumpy teenagers will be made happy with pizza and gelato- it worked in Venice a couple of years ago….

Even grumpy teenagers are no match for the magic of the Amalfi Coast. Loved reading your blog — we go next week — first few days in Venice then we go by train to Naples and get a car to go to stay in Paestum — so excited. I hope you have beautiful weather and a great time! Amazing photographs, thanks for the inspiration I truly love your blog!! Nice pictures and awesome writings. You have some seriously amazing pictures of the Amalfi Coast! I also went last summer and wrote about it : I would love your feedback.

When I get the baking bug, I really get it! Rome should definitely be on your list, and then possibly add somewhere scenic along the coast? Maybe it was because we went on such a sunny day, but I would describe Pompeii as more interesting than sad. Why am I just Seeing this? Sometimes I miss complete conversations, seriously.

Is it old age? I wanted to ask you, where was that Holocaust museum that you went to a couple of years back? Hannah was telling me there is one in Seattle that she wants to go to, and I plan on taking her, but I was also telling her about the one you visited. History in a museum is more hands on and realistic than just reading a book. Hmmm, I think that might be the Topography of Terror museum in Berlin? Thank you Sarah, I have bookmarked both places to show Hannah. One of the best parts of travel, I think, is visiting museums and galleries, it shows you the truth and the history of where you are… Thank you xx.

I absolutely adored your pictures! I went to the Amalfi coast this August and was mind blown, Positano was also my favourite place. Oh and the food! Your photos from Amalfi were gorgeous, too! I love that you were able to get some full landscape shots from the water. Especially in Positano, that really showcases just how compact these little beach alcoves are in Italy!

The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You
The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You
The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You
The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You
The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You
The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You
The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You
The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You The Amalfi Coast: What the Guide Books Dont Tell You

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